My admiration for Dubai grows. Growing up in
Bombay we were used to hearing a lot of strange, bizarre and probably partly fictitious
stories of the exploits of `Arabs’ in Bombay. How they love the rain, how wild
their behaviour is and so on and so forth. We also heard how just yesterday the
man was a Bedouin riding a camel and how today he owns a Mercedes which he can
barely drive. We heard about rags to riches stories of men who went as cooks
and returned as restaurant owners or something of the sort. Basically, Arabs
were the source of amusement. Let me assure you the joke is on us. We have been left dead in the water. Dubai is truly amazing.
Yes I know the cynics among you will say,
well this is all man made with money power driving poor Indian labour. Yes you
are correct. But hey? What about the monuments we have in India, our beloved
Taj Mahal, the Qutub Minar several palaces in Rajasthan. Was that not poor
Indian labour driven by sheer money power at the whim and fancy of an Emperor?
What about all the temples carved out of rock in South India? The workers there
were not treated to a Starbuck coffee, post work massage and a manicure to
soften the fingers. It’s all the same. One happened 500 years ago one happened
5 years ago. If you look at it from another perspective, all monuments are manmade,
what really is the difference between the Eiffel Tower or the Pyramids or
Empire State Building. We visit them all and marvel at the beauty. We must have
seen the documentary of the construction of the Hudson Dam and the Three Gorges
Dam in China. What really is the difference? It’s all man-made.
The development of this tiny kingdom is
something that boggles my mind. The audacity of constructing the Palms Islands,
the grandeur of the Burj Al Arab Hotel and coining the term Seven Star, the
megalomania of the Burl Khalifa and its attendant Mall, Fountains and Aquarium
have filled me with awe and deep respect. Every single one of these and the
hundreds of buildings and miles of roads have been constructed with labour from
India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka and other Asian countries. Yes none of these countries
could use that very same labour and construct even a tenth of what has been
done here. No our people are not bad, they can construct the finest buildings,
just give them a chance. The thousands of smiling waiters, taxi drivers, toilet
cleaners are really working hard in a seemingly bribe free, hassle free
environment. Yes they may live like dogs, as we are so often told, but would
they have been better off in India? Everyone I spoke to said it was just not
possible for them to save and send money home if they were working in India.
Yes life is tough. Yes we are privileged and I am always thankful for that. But
that is not my point. My point goes back to what I so often write. We have no,
repeat, no leaders in any category. Just media hyped personalities who we think
are leaders or role models. Rahul Gandhi? A typical spoilt brat, lives at home
with his mom, has no job and dabbles in the family business. Fine role model.
And our ministers who say I will die for Sonia Gandhi and Rahul Gandhi. This is
what we have as role models. How can we ever get better?
I did drive past the Burl Al Arab - the Seven
Star Hotel. The shape of the building in now recognisable anywhere. It’s as
much in our minds as the Sydney Opera House, Eiffel Tower and other distinctive
structures. All this built on reclaimed land. Really a dramatic building.
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The building behind the Burj Al Arab is the wave shaped Jumeirah Beach Resort |
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The Atlantis Hotel on the Palms |
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Water skiing off the Palms |
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No Pan Parag, no Frito Lays no beer bottles no kachra on the rocks |
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View from the Palms of the buildings on Jumeirah Beach Road |
The one building which we really wanted to
see is the magnificent Burj Khalifa. This is the world tallest building, and it’s
the tallest by a long way. The sheer size of the building is staggering. It towers
over everything around it and over every other tall building in the world. The
entire downtown Dubai area has been dramatically transformed by this one
building. The building contains the world’s largest shopping mall. This is a
split personality mall. Parts of it are Heera Panna and parts of it are super
luxury, luckily they are separated. In the mall is a massive Kinokunya
bookstore. One of the largest and most well stocked bookstore I have seen in
these internet Kindle times. Spent quite some time there.
Inside the mall you have a massive Aquarium.
We just did not have the heart to enter it. There were so many hyper excited
school children and prams that it was testing our patience. The next time we
will definitely go. The Building has a large water body in which they have
installed a fabulous water fountain show. The show runs for 3 odd minutes at 1
pm, 1.30 pm and 2 pm. Then its runs every half hour from 6 pm. We could not go
at night on this trip, but I can imagine it will be beautifully lit. The show
in the afternoon was awe inspiring in itself. Really moving when paired with
the music, and, the grace of the water fountains brought a tear to my eye. More
beautiful than any dance I have seen.
And the Burj Khalifa? No words can describe
it. Please see the photos. Just a few facts which you may find useful if you
want to visit it. An entry ticket costs AED 100 [INR 1500]. With this ticket
you have to choose the time slot you want to visit. You can book this online,
which is what we did before leaving for Dubai. It makes sense to book in
advance as there are days when all time slots are sold out. If you are
impatient you can pay AED 400 and get in immediately. You do have to make one
decision. Go during the day or go at sunset. The queues get long, quite long
for the evening slot with a 45 minute wait for the elevator, so if you want to
blow about 2 hours on this go at in the evening. We went at 11 am and were in
and out by 11.30. The lift that takes you up 124, yes 124 floors takes 1 minute
and is super smooth. Your ears will pop gently while going up and down. Take
the telescope viewing option. It costs AED 25 extra. You get to use an
electronic telescope on the top. Please do have a look at the view as of now
and what it was before construction. The views from up there are unbelievable.
And sound does not travel to the 124th floor. It was quiet.
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You get a sense of how tall this is when you see other building in comparison |
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The pool with the water fountains taken from the 124 floor |
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Have a look at the roads. Arrow straight and masses of junctions and exits. |
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A gold ATM. Put your credit card in a draw out Gold!! |
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The Fountains |
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The sleepy Gold Souk |
Next time you are in Dubai, keep a day or two
for yourself. Go to the Burj Khalifa, see the fountains and if you like kids go
to the aquarium. If you have more time go to Al Maha. If you have still more
time visit the Museum, I believe it’s quite good. The Gold Souk is perhaps
overrated but still worth a stroll. The malls are impressive. I believe the
beaches are very good but we haven’t had a chance to visit on this trip. And if
you are a foodie, there is every imaginable cuisine on offer in Dubai at
various price points. Dubai is more, much more than just shopping and gold and
Russian prostitutes. It a vibrant, throbbing exciting dynamic metropolis wanting
to become the world’s coolest city. It may well become one, except its damn hot.
Interesting read as always, I fully agree that the joke is on us. The Arab states have used the oil money to better the lot of citizens (doubt whether there are any poor arabs). Just imagine what our politicians (refuse to call them leaders)would have done if oil was found in India.Actually we know, just have to look at what happened with coal and other minerals.
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